Day 1:
We arrived late in the afternoon, after a four hour train ride from the Cinque Terre. We hustled through typical routine: getting enough food to hold us over, checking in, dropping off bags, using the bathroom, and buying a metro pass. We knew that the San Sebastian Catacombs closed at 5 pm, and that we didn't want to spend the better part of one of our other days traveling out there. Thus, we hopped onto the subway, transfering to a bus, that dropped us off on the Via Antica, one of the oldest and most important roads in Rome. The sides of the old, cobblestone road are lined with the ruins of ancient roman villas. Unfortunately we had to appreciate them on the run, as we jogged to get to the catacombs before they closed.
After arriving just in time, we enjoyed the 45 degree temperature in the ancient, underground, Christian burial grounds almost as much as we enjoyed the site itself. Our tour guide took us through various sections of the catacombs, showing us where Christian families were buried, explaining the early 20th century restoration of the catacombs, and describing that, contrary to popular belief, Romans knew about the burial site, and even provided much of the stonework and ceramic material used in the burials.The guide noted that the prior to it's use as a Christian burial site, the grounds were used by non-Christian Romans to store urns with the remains of families.
On our way back to the center of Rome, we caught the wrong bus, and ended up driving around for two hours. Fortunately, we met an Australian pair of travelers (brother and sister), an American pair of travelers (two female college roommates from St. Mary's, near Notre Dame), and a friendly retired Italian couple. The words to describe the Italian man are: sardonic, jovial, and loud. He had worked in the travel industry and enjoyed talking with us about Utah, the LDS church, and the temple in "Beverly Hills." He was on our bus for an hour or so, and we talked for most of the time. He essentially gave us a bus tour of the main sites. I jokingly offered him a tip before we got off the bus.
In the evening, we went to Piazza Navonna, and walked from there to our hotel near the train station, via the Spanish Steps. Piazza Navonna was filled with tourists, caricaturists, and Indian men trying to sell bright, flying toys.
Day 2:
The Vatican. Having essentially skipped the Vatican in 2005 (Mike and I had visited in 99 on a trip with our parents), I had completely forgotten how engrossing it was. Jenny and I spent the entire day in the world's smallest country. Our first item of business was to get tickets for the Pope's general audience, which takes place every Wednesday morning. To get tickets, you need to go to the Vatican on the Monday or Tuesday before the general audience (We happened to be in town on a Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday) and approach one of these guys...
After the Swiss Guard gave us two tickets, we walked through St. Peters Basilica, admiring the gold ceilings, the altarpiece, and the mosaics that are so intricate they look like paintings from two feet away. Jenny and I talked about the fact that the best Catholic creations (and creators) for the last 1600-2000 years (depending on whether or not your Catholic) typically ended up here. Michaelangelo designed much of the Basilica, which is supposed to be the world's largest. Bernini designed the entryway. Hundreds of other Catholics contributed art, sculptures, etc. It's no wonder that the Basilica is so spectacular.
After gawking at the interior of the Basilica, we went underneath it, to view the Papal Tombs. Apparently, once a Pope attains the status of "Blessed" or "Saint," he is eligible to be entombed in St. Peters Basilica. Until then, he is typically kept underneath the Basilica. The Papal Tombs are dimly lit, with a low ceiling, and evoke a very traditional Catholic tradition feeling. While walking through the tombs, we talked about how the Pope was the most powerful man in the world for hundreds of years, and how he is still extremely influential. We walked passed Pope John Paul's tomb, which was being guarded by two security officers, and admired by fifteen patrons, including several nuns. We continued on, past the front of the tomb which is said to hold the remains of Peter, whom Catholics believe to be the first Pope. (In case your wondering, Peter's "remains" are technically in the Basilica and not in the Papal Tombs, thus corresponding to his status as a Catholic Saint).
From the Papal Tombs, we climbed to the top of the Basilica, walking at a slant along the stairs encircling the dome. We exited twice onto small walkways overlooking the Basilica floor, several hundred feet below. The top of the dome offered the best views of Rome.
After summiting the dome, we joined a tour group for a walk through the Vatican Museum. We passed sculptures such as Laocoon. Apparently, the sculpture, a Roman masterpiece, was rediscovered in the early 1500s, buried in dirt. The Catholic church summoned 10 sculptors to determine how the man's arm, which was still missing, should be reconstructed. 9 of the sculptors said that the arm should be stretched upwards. One sculptor said that the arm should be bent. The church went with the nine sculptors and reconstructed the sculpture with an outstretched arm. Several hundred years later, additional pieces of the sculpture were found in the ground near the site of the original discovery. Included in these pieces was a bent arm that fit the Laocoon statue. Michaelangelo was the sculptor who had originally suggested that the arm should be bent. He had studied anatomy against the Catholic church's will, and, fearing repercussions, didn't say anything about his study to support his claim. That's the story anyway.
We saw many other masterpieces in the museum, including the map room, tapestry room, and of course, the Sistine Chapel. The Sistine Chapel is where the Pope is elected, and site of Michaelangelo's most impressive paintings. Our tour guide pointed out the marks on the floor from the original stove used to produce the black and white smoke, informing the people outside the Sistine Chapel whether or not a new pope had been elected. Black smoke = no new pope yet. White smoke = new pope has been elected.
From the Vatican, we wandered around Rome, stopping at the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps.
At the Trevi Fountatin, dozens of tourists threw coins in for good luck. One guy (I'm assuming not a tourist) took his luck into his own hands...
I noticed him walking around with a magnet attached to an antenna. He would look into the fountain for one and two euro pieces, before hurrying to extend the antenna and snatch the coin with the magnet. His lack of shame was a marvel itself. Several tourists showed their frustration, but he just laughed and shrugged his arms. Occasionally he walked with them for a ways, chatting.
The Spanish Steps are at the top of one of Rome's best fashion streets, and I happened to get the Golden Girls in my snapshot, out for a day of shopping.
Day 3:
We left our hotel early to get good seats at the Pope's General Audience. We were told that the best seats are near the aisles. At 8:30, we happened to get right up against the side aisle, and one row behind the front aisle. Basically, if the Pope came anywhere near the middle of the cross-shaped aisles, we would have a perfect line of sight. At 10:30, Papal music started playing, and Pope Benedict came scooting out from the side of St. Peters in his "Pope-mobile" (our Vatican Museum tour guide's word). Amazingly, he came in front of us twice. It was crazy seeing the guy who is more or less the most iconic religious figure in the world. Aside from seeing the Pope, we enjoyed seeing all of the pomp and regalia surrounding the event. People had traveled from all over the world, and Catholic officials (Cardinals?) in black and pink read the 111th (?) psalm in several different languages.
After the ceremony, we rushed through the Coloseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forums. One of our favorite parts was seeing the contrast between the incomprehensibility of the construction of the Colosseum, and a display of everyday items found at the Colosseum, including peach, olive, and cherry pits, hair pins, pipes, stoves for heating food, and knitting needles. On the one hand, the Colosseum is so incredible that it's impersonal. One can't imagine how people built it, so it doesn't feel like there is a real connection to the past. Upon seeing the things people ate or did while watching matches, however, one feels eerily close to people who lived 1800 years ago. 
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